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Chef Nelson Millan with Sapelo Farms Farmer Betty Lewis
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Archive for November, 2009

26Nov
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Mise en place, knives, towels, and now cameras..

I am writing this article for chefs who like to photograph their food at work. I have seen so many photos that could have been a lot better if you follow some basic principles. So here are some tips on making your food look really clean.

1. Use a tripod

2. Don’t use the flash (use the desk lamps pictured below)

2a. If you can shoot in the restaurant, shoot close to a window for good natural light

3. Buy some desktop table lamps (Home Depot $15 each, fluorescent)

4. Get close as you can, digital zoom isnt very good

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2 Home Depot desk lamps, one on top and one in the front, $30 lighting, see photo below for result

5. Set the scene with a plate first, and put a small colorful napkin on the prep plate to test lighting

6. Always plate the food at the last minute, after you have already determined the location and adjusted lighting, if you have a sauce, plate it at the scene moments before the shot is taken

7. Set the camera on the self-timer, you might cause a vibration when pushing the button to take the photo, I set mine to 5  seconds, then you can be sure the camera is absolutely still

8. Camera doesnt matter, a point and shoot camera on a tripod with decent lighting can produce a clear photo like the one pictured below.

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2 Home Depot desk lamps, one on top and one in the front, $30 lighting

I will be posting a step by step “How-to” very soon, stay tuned.

Thanks to Chef Daniel Zeal of the Georgian Room for the beautiful salad.

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23Nov

forbes

Forbes Travel Guide, formerly Mobil Travel Guide, has announced its 2010 Five and Four Star Winners. This year’s distinguished Five Star winners include 41 lodgings, 20 restaurants and 3 spas, while outstanding Four Star winners span 125 lodgings, 149 restaurants and 84 spas. To help you plan your year in luxury travel, read on and discover the very best in hotels, restaurants and spas throughout the U.S. and Canada and Beijing, Hong Kong and Macau.

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Anthony Whiddon, Georgian Room Chef de Partie plates up during dinner service

Five-Star Restaurants:

Arizona – Chandler: Kai

California – San Diego: Addison

California – San Francisco: The Dining Room, The French Laundry

California – Laguna Beach: Studio

Colorado – Colorado Springs: The Penrose Room

Georgia – Sea Island: Georgian Room

Illinois – Chicago: Alinea, Charlie Trotter’s

Maine – Kennebunkport: The White Barn Inn Restaurant

Nevada – Las Vegas: Alex, Joel Robuchon at The Mansion

New York – New York: Jean Georges, Le Bernardin, Masa, Per Se

Pennsylvania – Farmington: Lautrec

South Carolina – Summerville: Dining Room at the Woodlands

Texas – Brenham: Inn at Dos Brisas

Virginia – Washington: The Inn at Little Washington

To view the complete list of 4 and 5 star properties click here.

kristin

Chef Kristin Butterworth plating up at the Georgian Room, she is currently working at The Inn at Little Washington

Forbes Travel Guide, formerly Mobil Travel Guide, is pleased to announce its 2010 Five and Four Star Winners. This year’s distinguished Five Star winners include 41 lodgings, 17 restaurants and 3 spas, while outstanding Four Star winners span 125 lodgings, 149 restaurants and 84 spas. To help you plan your year in luxury travel, read on and discover the very best in hotels, restaurants and spas throughout the U.S. and Canada and Beijing, Hong Kong and Macau.
Five-Star Restaurants:
Arizona – Chandler: Kai
California – San Diego: Addison
California – San Francisco: The Dining Room, The French Laundry
California – Laguna Beach: Studio
Colorado – Colorado Springs: The Penrose Room
Georgia – Sea Island: Georgian Room
Illinois – Chicago: Alinea, Charlie Trotter’s
Maine – Kennebunkport: The White Barn Inn Restaurant
Nevada – Las Vegas: Alex, Joel Robuchon at The Mansion
New York – New York: Jean Georges, Le Bernardin, Masa, Per Se
Pennsylvania – Farmington: Lautrec
South Carolina – Summerville: Dining Room at the Woodlands
Texas – Brenham: Inn at Dos Brisas
Virginia – Washington: The Inn at Little Washington
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21Nov

So in an earlier post I mentioned the culinary trends for 2010, and what chefs might be looking out for this coming year. After thinking a while, It occurred to me the most important item on the list was missing. In a word, sharing. Some of the best chefs in the world got where they are today because another chef took the time to pass on the craft and helped develop them into something better than themselves. Its not everyday you can find chefs willing to do this, for ego reasons, or insecurity, its unfortunate for those entering the culinary world. With the addition to the food network and the influx of applications at culinary schools, maybe the ratio of mentor chefs to students willing to learn is growing out of control. Time will tell. But once in a while you do hear about a success story, here are a few of them.

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ACF Graduation Medals

Let’s have a look at the ACF culinary apprenticeship program and how one graduate passes his knowledge on to another. First up is Chef Kevin Humphreys, who grew up on Sea Island, Georgia, home to one of the finest resorts in the world. Here Kevin was introduced to some of the best chefs in the region, and this is where he completed his three year apprenticeship program earning his Associate Degree in Culinary Arts, certified by the ACF.

After completing his apprenticeship Kevin Began working at the Banquet Chef and PM Sous Chef at  Jackson Lake Lodge in Moran, Wyoming during the summer months and as Chef Tournede at Gulf Stream Golf Club in Delray Beach, Florida the remainder of the year.

In 2001, Kevin combined his love for the Jackson Hole area and his years of experience in hotel restaurants and joined Snake River Lodge & Spa, a RockResort, as Executive Chef of Gamefish Restaurant.

Enter Tim Morton, a native of Minnesota, who has been cooking in turn and burns since the age of 17.  When he was 22 he moved to Jackson Hole, Wyoming to join the team at the Snake River Lodge and Spa, under the guidance of Chef Humphreys. Chef Humphreys graduated 8 years before Tim joined the team at Snaker River, and he encouraged Tim to join the three year program at Sea Island.

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Chef Tim Morton in the kitchen

After 3 long years in the program, learning from highly experienced chefs from all over the world, Tim was ready for graduation. The graduation consists of a final day graduation dinner, prepared from scratch by the apprentices, judged by chefs from Sea Island, and chefs from the ACF. Among the chefs judging were CEC Tim Thomas, CMC Helmut Holzer, CMC Russel Scott, and CEC Reimund Pitz. I dont know about you, but cooking for Certified Master Chef’s would certainly create some added pressure to the situation.

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Judges Table: CMC Russel Scott, CEC Tim Thomas, CMC Helmut Holzer, CEC Reimund Pitz

Chef Tim describes how the judges are looking for a foundation of old school techniques…”The test itself is not really that hard. Its just cooking. But you need to do so in the ACF way. The technique must be right and flavor and seasoning as well. But we got burnt on things like plating, the judges saying they were impractical. Although we would plate like this everday in the restaurant, they were looking for something more old school. The judges were great though. They were all CMC’s and very kind with their time. For the four hours they would ask questions and give advice. I think the test really helped to prepare me for real life cooking practicals like when you are trying out for a new job.”

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CEC Reimund Pitz inspects the techniques of Tim Morton and Matthew Lafountain

Tim further describes the process as…”The menus are picked for us but we choose the flavor combinations for the classic dishes. My menu was first course, chicken consomme julienne, truffle potato gnocchi. Second was grilled snapper, butter bean succatash and sauce choron. Third was Beef pot roast, glazed carrots and dauphine potatoes. Fourth was blueberry souffle, bourbon anglaise and blueberry sauce. We have four hours to cook the four dishes, including butchering and everything thats included in preparing the meal from scratch.

The judges were full of great things. mostly the basics. Really drove the basics. Every one of them at different time would come by and taste the blanching water to make sure it was salted. Sauce work and soup was also very important. one of the guys made a cauliflour soup and they asked why he didnt make a stock of the trimming for the base of the soup. Alot of the advice was subjective, as with all food interpratation. witch led to great debeat between the chefs. one who disagreed with what we did, one who agreed with it and the other who had a hole different take on it. All of there advice was very old school. they had alot to sat about our plating. not there or the acf style. Matt, one of the apprentices did a desert that was very sweet and savory. Raymond Pitz said that if it wasnt perfect he would of failed just for the fact of his decision to go contemorary and focus on the basics of good cookery. He also followed it up with it was damn good, but he was lucky. Russell scott said the flavors didnt matter as much as the execution of the skill. We had a 2 hour depiction of our food afrer we were done cooking from the chefs. Escoffier was their bible and it would end all descussion. To be honest, my head was spinning that day and i dont remember as much as i probubly should. But one thing i wont forget is the drive for the basics. We tried to be prgressive with our platting and flavors or whatever. The chefs were open to it but drove home the good cookery and the basic never go out of style.

The judges were full of great things, mostly the basics. Really drove the basics. Every one of them at different time would come by and taste the blanching water to make sure it was salted. Sauce work and soup was also very important. One of the guys made a cauliflower soup and they asked why he didnt make a stock of the trimming for the base of the soup. Alot of the advice was subjective, as with all food interpretation, which led to great debate between the chefs. One who disagreed with what we did, one who agreed with it and the other who had a whole different take on it. All of there advice was very old school, they had alot to say about our plating.

Patrick Churches, Matthew Lafountain, Tim Morton

Patrick Churches, Matthew Lafountain, Tim Morton

One of the apprentices did a dessert that was very sweet and savory. CMC Raymond Pitz said that if it wasnt perfect he would have failed just for the fact of his decision to go contemporary and focus on the basics of good cookery. CMC Russell Scott said the flavors didn’t matter as much as the execution of the skill. We had a 2 hour depiction of our food after we were done cooking from the chefs.

Escoffier was their bible and it would end all discussion.  But one thing I wont forget is the drive for the basics. We tried to be progressive with our plating and flavors or whatever. The chefs were open to it but drove home the good cookery and the basic never go out of style.”

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Matthew Lafountain plating up

After graduation Tim stayed on board at Sea Island to work for Chef Scott Crawford, of the Georgian Room. In 2006, Esquire Magazine named the Georgian Room one of the “Best New Restaurants of 2006″. The Georgian Room is the Cloister’s signature restaurant and has earned Five Stars 3 years in a row from Mobil/Forbes (2008, 2009, 2010).  In 2008, Crawford moved on to the Umstead Hotel in Cary, North Carolina, where Tim followed and is now Chef de Partie at Heron’s Restaurant, where he works several PM shift stations.

“There is no substitute for hands on experience. Completion of an apprenticeship shows career commitment and dependability. Going to a job interview with your log book as a portfolio instead of just a resume shows a serious expression of commitment to the trade. Apprenticeship shows self motivation like nothing else. It is two to three years of hard work with no way to avoid optimal experience and devotion. Apprenticeship students learn by doing.” Jack A. Fredericks, CEC, Chef Instructor, Indian River Community College, Fort Pierce, Fla.

Congrats to the chefs who promote cooks, keep the craft alive and share what you know. For more information about the ACF Culinary Apprenticeship Program visit http://www.acfchefs.org

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19Nov

Consultants Predict 13 Restaurant and Hotel Food and Dining Trends for 2010

Joseph Baum & Michael Whiteman Co. creates high-profile restaurants around the world for hotels, restaurant companies, major museums and other consumer destinations. Based in New York, their projects include the late Windows on the World and the magical Rainbow Room, Equinox in Singapore, the world’s first food courts, and five three-star restaurants in New York, and numerous first-class hotels. Their predictions follow …

Sapelo Farms, Brunswick, Georgia

Sapelo Farms, Brunswick, Georgia

#1 | NEW PRIORITIES FOR BEATEN-UP CONSUMERS: Too many restaurant and hotel execs are grappling with pre-recession consumer issues, while people today are expressing entirely new – and more complex — sets of concerns. These concerns might tamp down consumer spending for another five years – and are difficult for hotel and restaurant professionals to deal with. Why? Because what worries people today no longer reflects abstract and idealistic pre-recession issues. Now people are focusing inward. Their concerns are personal, emotional and ethical. For example:

NEXT YEAR’S HOT BUTTONS

  • Economic survival
  • Reassurance
  • Intimacy & friendship
  • Feeding my knowledge
  • Feeding my emotions
  • Artisan, hand-made
  • Neighborhood, local
  • Authentic, real
  • Comfort & safety

Hotel and restaurant people who make a big deal about powering their trucks with used frying fat, or switching to green detergent, or printing menus on recycled paper may be addressing the wrong issues. Millions of people are in danger of losing their homes and unemployment is still rising; people are plain scared … and they’re looking for a “safe harbor.” So hotels and restaurants should be luring these hunkered down consumers from their psychological storm cellars by (and we’re being metaphoric here) replicating the “campfire experience” – building emotional ties and connecting to communities. They need to audit their businesses based on the hot-buttons listed above … because, we believe, these issues will remain on the table for years to come.

#2 PUTTING FOCUS ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE MENU … because that’s where the emotional resonance is (see item #1, above). Look for more creative snacky things, more small plates, more portion options … things sized for one, for two, for a crowd. This isn’t just a “small plates phenomenon” … because it isn’t about the size of the plate: Sharing is the key … sharing responds to consumers’ needs for comfort and safety, for intimacy and friendship. In 2010, smart operators will figure out how to translate this to the right side of the menu – where main courses are, and if you need an example of how it works, think of Thanksgiving dinner – a “communal” main course for sharing and lots of go-withs.

#3 UPSCALING THE DOWNSCALE: No question that consumers are trading down. Steakhouse sales slipped 25%-30% since last year, and $100 bottles of wine gather dust. Predictably, hamburger and hot dog sales are on the rise but not because they’re cheap. What’s important is that consumers are using these vehicles as trade-up treats! That’s what’s behind the explosion of “gourmet” hamburgers smothered in the likes of manchego cheese and Iberian ham; or fanciful hot dogs served with goat cheese and guacamole; or french fries revved up with parmesan cheese and truffle oil. Consumers are trading down in order to trade up! That explains why operators are successfully playing one-upmanship with these items, why they’re labeling them like categories of steak: brisket burgers, short rib burgers, grass-fed burgers. It’s why lamb burgers, which you couldn’t give away three years ago, are selling. It’s why you find hand-made artisan hot dogs and Kobe dogs smothered in home-made relishes and condiments (Show Dogs, San Francisco; Bark, Brooklyn; Hot Doug’s, Chicago). Danger: At low price points, there’s little economic risk in experimenting; but when people finally have more money in their pockets, will they forsake these humble things and rush back to steaks and chops?

#4 FRESH = LOCAL = HAND-MADE = SAFER = BETTER: The words “organic” and “natural” are so diluted (polluted, actually) by big-brand food companies that they’re being replaced in consumers’ minds by “fresh” and “local” and “hand-made.” That’s why farmers markets are catching on everywhere even though food there costs more than at chain retailers: People are looking for edibles they can trust, and for food communities that stand personally behind their products. Restaurants and hotels are spotlighting house-made or locally-made bread, artisancured salami, chef-pickled vegetables, locally- butchered beef, honey from nearby hives, food purchased from regional farms … all these theoretically reflecting sustainability and helping local farmers and being better for the environment. They connote reassurance and community values (see #1, above) … which is why chefs are planting their own vegetable gardens, even on roofs of high-rise hotels. Mrs. Obama digging a vegetable patch at the White House was more than a photo op … it was a message that’s been recognized by smart restaurateurs.

#5 FRIED CHICKEN IS THE NEW PORK BELLY: Fed up with globs of pig fat from undercooked pork belly? Say hello new-fangled fried chicken — crisped in all sorts of inventive ways by lowly diner cooks and exalted chefs alike. Ahead of the curve: Korean fried chicken, invisibly coated, amazingly flavorful and fried twice for ultracrunch, moving out of traditional Korean-towns into mainstream neighborhoods. Global players from Southeast Asia are eyeing the US market, their birds fragrant with lemongrass, fish sauce and warm spices. Lots of chicken is emerging from Latino neighborhoods, too – Pollos Frisby from Colombia, Pollo Campero from Guatemala – zinged up with citrus juices, garlic and regional spices. Some exalted chefs are toying with highly complex formulas from Malaysia (where fried birds are called ayam goring) and the Med Rim (think ras el hanout). And then there are Monday night chicken dinners at Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc in Yountville, in Napa Valley, and at Andrew Carmellini’s Locada Verde in New York. People fight for a table at Momofuku Noodle Bar in New York, where you’ll get two chickens (one southern fried, the other a thricefried Korean rendition) but even at a hundred buck a pop for your group, tables are perpetually sold out. Poor KFC: Just when they introduce their lower-fat additiveladen “grilled” chicken breast, then the fried version becomes gastronomically trendy.

#6 PUTTING IN “GOOD” ADDITIVES INSTEAD OF TAKING OUT NASTY ONES: After years of purging their food of such “nasties” as transfats and other greases, preservatives, sodium (still work to do there), and artificial flavors and colors … food companies now are scrambling for additives that make you healthier and more beautiful. Savvy restaurateurs ought to take note of shenanigans like adding omega-3 and plant sterols to breads to alleviate stress and lower cholesterol; antioxidants and probiotics to goose your immune system; vitamins to already adulterated bottled water; collagen to dried fruit (you can’t make this up) for women sidestepping the ravages of aging; and various unpronounceables that blunt your appetite so you’ll (maybe) lose weight. One soda supplier adds kava extract for alcoholic high without the alcohol. Soon, governments here and in Europe will clamp down on outrageous health claims. Meanwhile watch bartenders (err, mixologists) get into the act by concocting good-for-you cocktails with “enhanced” beverages — on the theory that you can drink yourself into good health and become beautiful while getting sloshed. Guanara, acai, goji, green tea, hibiscus, acerola are some beverage buzzwords. Similar ingredients are creeping into fast food beverages, too. Move over, dieticians; looking good rises to the top of the menu. Followed, soon, by an emphasis on “brain health.” No restaurant can overtly put this sort of stuff on a menu (“try our anti-oxidant cabernet” won’t fly), so new menu language will have to emerge.

#7 THEY LAUGHED WHEN WE SAID “TONGUE”: Last year, some bloggers said we’d gone bonkers by predicting that tongue – beef and veal – would be hot in 2009. Well … here’s the Offal Truth: For 2010, it’ll be tongue (including lamb) and oxtail along with beef and pork cheeks, chicken gizzards, tripe, and other innards and odd parts. “In a pig’s ear,” you say? That, too, along with trotters. Savvy chefs are using these odd parts to offset downsized portions of expensive steaks and chops. You interleave a few slices of strip steak with slices of smoked tongue; you top a petit filet mignon with a nugget of wine-braised beef cheek; you layer some oxtail ravioli over a half-size portion of New York strip and … bingo! … chefs create added interest and eye candy while lowering their food costs.

#8 LOSING CONTROL OVER LANGUAGE: Hotels and restaurants no longer control what’s said about them … or who says it. The old experts … travel and food journalists … are disappearing, along with their newspapers and magazines, so the old Voices of Authority who reliably carried restaurants’ and hotels’ marketing messages and images (word-heavy Gourmet magazine, for example) are an endangered species. Instead, authority is dispersed among the Instant Opinion Makers: bloggers, texters, twitterers, facebookers, yelpers (many pure shillsters) – who broadcast “buzz” and bad news to a million gullible people in the blink of an eye. So we’re swapping good gastro-journalism for dubious opinionating. Amidst this electronic takeover, a local restaurant’s reputation can trump a national brand’s … so we’re seeing a leveling of the playing field between big chains and clever independent operators. Some mobile applications can locate restaurants all around where you’re standing at this very moment, along with reviews, menus and other essential data. A New York startup plans to help operators fight back against negative reviews with text-like messages to PDA subscribers (free beer tomorrow!; two tables open at 8 p.m.!). Next year’s marketing and PR mavens will be experts at getting operators closer to their customers everywhere and any time, using all sorts of social networks … and bypassing the former journalistic gatekeepers.

#9 SWEET TO BITTER TO TART: A decade or so back, American palates made a profound shift from sweet to bitter – which explains the rise of strong coffee, dark chocolate, broccoli rabb, brussels sprouts and other bitter food. There’s been another, quieter shift, from sweet-sweet to tart-sweet. That’s why chefs are now pickling their own vegetables to serve with newly trendy rich and fatty meats (see Item #6 above). You’ll find pickled veggies inserted into Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches (another trend moving inward from the coasts). You’ll see more pickled shallots, leeks or ramps atop steak, instead of fatty onion rings. You’ll get it in the sour-salty flavor profiles of increasingly trendy Southeast Asian cookery. You’ll find kids getting pucker-mouth as they opt for stunningly sour candies. It explains why classic French cookery, based on excesses of butter and cream, is in decline because it puts taste buds into snooze mode. What makes this important is that we’re all getting older and need more zing in our food; a rebalancing of sour-salty-sweet therefore assumes growing relevance on restaurant menus in 2010.

#10 MENU CHURN: A crummy economy and declining consumer traffic forces restaurants to poach each other customers by stealing competitors’ top menu items. This happens all the time in a copycat industry, but it has accelerated. Fast food chains are adding up-priced imitations of gourmet burgers. Pizza chains are suddenly becoming pasta, sandwich and chicken wings specialists. Specialty juice chains fight back by adding pizzas and flatbreads. Look for juice bars and smoothie bars in fast food and fast-cas outlets in 2010. Fast-casual chains are figuring out how to incorporate menu winners from sit-down restaurants – including testing alcoholic beverages. Everyone’s adding snacks and signature beverages and energy drinks, hoping to capture between-meal business. Cupcakes are popping up in so many places that this trend is sure to self-destruct. And don’t get us started about the coffee wars! The danger: As menus become increasingly generic, people will forget what a restaurant stands for. Ironic … because big hotel chains are doing everything they can to reinforce their specific “brand experience” rather than being all things to all people.

#11 MEET YOU AT THE SUPERMARKET: The frequency of meals eaten away from home was sliding even before the global economic collapse – in large part because fewer women are working — but accelerating numbers of consumers are re-discovering their dining room tables. (That’s why steak sales have rocketed in supermarkets.) Restaurant chains hope to replace lost in-store business by getting their brands onto those tables. They’re doing this by pasting their logos onto supermarket products. Chains as varied as Burger King, P.F. Chang, Cheesecake Factory and TGIFriday’s have moved into the world of retail food as they seek new channels of distribution. Some analysts worry that each meal’s migration from restaurant to a food store eliminates sales of profitable side orders and beverages, and erodes the ability to pay the rent on expensive restaurant real estate. And what happens to the “brand experience” (see Item #10)?

#12 CATERING TO KIDS: It’s no accident that kids’ menus are popping up on chain restaurants: The recession did it. Such chains as P.F. Chang and Cheesecake Factory added children’s menus this past summer, with Chipotle Grill following suit. Denny’s has swapped some of its fat and calorie bombs for vegetables and yogurt. They all frightened that cash-strapped families are staying home in droves (see #11), so they’re inviting folks to bring the kids. Look for more restaurants and hotels offering cooking classes for youngsters following the success of Eat Fresh Food: Awesome Recipes for Teenage Chefs … a new healthful cookbook by Rozanne Gold. “When kids cook, entire families eat better,” says Gold. The health issue won’t go away now that the Feds turned the spotlight on such nonsense as Froot Loops, Hellman’s mayonnaise and Breyer’s ice cream being marketed under the (now disgraced) “Smart Choice” banner; and after researchers discovered that cereals marketed directly to children have 85 percent more sugar, 65 percent less fiber, and 60 percent more sodium than cereals marketed to adults. Look for more kids-eat-free restaurant promotions, more emphasis on healthful children’s menus, and more “adult” things for kids to eat along with their food-savvy parents.

BUZZWORDS FOR 2010:

  • Authentic Neapolitan pizza.
  • Lamb riblets.
  • Too many food trucks, not enough curb space.
  • Latino street food.
  • Farmed trout creeps up on farmed salmon.
  • Curry- and Indian-spiced fried chicken.
  • Vietnamese sandwiches (bahn mi).
  • Gelati.
  • Global comfort food.
  • Artisan hot dogs.
  • Made-to-order ice cream.
  • Chefs turned butchers.
  • Casual comfort.
  • Touch-screen kiosks and home delivery in fast food outlets.
  • Latino street food.
  • Wood oven cooking.
  • More energy drinks and adulterated waters.
  • Mood food.
  • Backyard and rooftop bee hives.
  • Stevia.
  • Kimchee.
  • Urban farms.
  • Griddled burgers.
  • Free food.
  • House-made everything, especially in sandwiches.

Joseph Baum & Michael Whiteman Co. creates high-profile restaurants around the world for hotels, restaurant companies, major museums and other consumer destinations. Based in New York, their projects include the late Windows on the World, the Rainbow Room, the world’s first food courts, and five three-star restaurants in New York. They have run trends seminars for Taj Hotels, Mumbai; Starwood Asia-Pacific, Bangkok; Certified Angus Beef Convention, Scottsdale; Culinary Institute of America, Napa Valley; Les Dames d’Escoffier Convention, Philadelphia; Club Corporation of America Convention, Austin.

Chef Kristin Butterworth

Chef Kristin Butterworth, The Inn at Little Washington

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18Nov

Let’s go behind the scenes of a James Beard Dinner with a great friend of mine, Chef Nelson Millan. In April 2004, the team at the Ocean Reef Club, in Key Largo, Florida was invited to attend a special dinner for the “Hidden Chef Series”. The Hidden Chef series gives members a chance to sample the cuisine of chefs cooking in private clubs and other institutions that require special memberships and/or dues.

Nelson was asked to help design and perform a special “Floribbean” menu, since he had so many years experience with Caribbean cuisine. All the other chefs were from France and the States, and ran daily operations tailored to international or american regional cuisine. Nelson is Puerto Rican, and I know how much he loves roasted pork, so its no surprise la “caja china” was used in the dinner.

The team spent about 2 sessions back at the Ocean Reef Club to work out the menu and do a tasting, that includes the wine pairings. Nelson tells me, that the James Beard House even shipped over a sample of their china so the chefs could choose which plates they wanted to serve on, nice touch.

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Nelson pictured in the center with Chef's: Phillippe Reynaud, Mark Gallaudet, Kevin Cornaire, Jennifer Schaffer, and Manda AIken

So from the time they get the invitation to the event date was about 4 months. They decided to ship all the ingredients through Fedex to the event, and they all flew up there to save time. They stayed at the New York Yacht Club, a hotel just a few minutes away from the James Beard House. On Tuesday and Wednesday they prepped all day with the help from students at the French Culinary Institute, as the dinner was scheduled for Thursday night. A total of about 60 guests attended the dinner, among them 15-20 chefs from New York City, and a handful from Hawaii.

As Nelson explains, the kitchen is small with not alot of room to move around, and there arent any walk-in coolers. During plate up guests have the chance to interview the chefs, ask questions, and get to know more about the menu and techniques involved.

So basically, the reception is at 6:00 pm, the dinner starts at 7:00 pm and goes for about 3 hours. After dinner you clean up a bit, and make it upstairs to the dining area. After a standing ovation, each chef receives a plaque, a medal, and are thanked by the House organizers and head off to their hotel to celebrate.

After party? Hell ya, I cant imagine all the fun they had after the dinner, but they all decided to go to DB Bistro, Daniel Boulud’s interpretation of a classic american/french bistro. Had some great food, sipped wine, and shared memories that will last a lifetime. Cheers to that!!

I’d also like to mention, that most of the expenses were paid by the hotel the chef’s worked for. So if you are a chef in a large hotel or decent size restaurant then go ahead and get your team together and send an email or call the JBH for more details. It would be great publicity for your hotel, and a great experience for the chefs on the team.

The Menu: A Taste of the Tropics (click here for James Beard website description)
Ocean Reef Club, James Beard Foundation “Hidden Chef Series”, Monday April 19, 2004

The original menu

The original menu


Braised Pineapple with Coconut Gelato copy

Braised Pineapple with Coconut Gelato

1. Shaved Baby Conch Salad
Candied Lime & Sweet Potato Straws with Passion Fruit Syrup
Eroica, 2002 Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington

Red Stripe Beer, Jamaica

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Shaved Conch Salad

2. Island Spiced Wahoo
In Banana Leaf with Annatto Oil
Grilled over Coconut Husk
Whitehall Lane, 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California

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Grilled Wahoo

3. Sour Sop Float
with Lychees & Strawberries

4. Caja China Roast Lechon
Sweet Potato & Corn Risotto
Micro Sprouts Salad with Crispy Hearts of Palm
Mojo Roasting Juices
Indian Wells, 2001 Merlot, Columbia Valley, Washington

Suckling Pig Entree copy

Suckling Pig Entree

5. Spiced Rum Braised Pineapple
Coconut Gelato & Sapodilla Compote with Plantain Crisp
Bosc dla Rei, 2002 Moscato d’Asti, La Morra, Italy

Our team & help from Diane & Steve copy

Our team & help from Diane & Steve

Prepared by:
Executive Chef Phillipe Reynaud & Assistant Executive Chef Mark Gallaudet
Chef Garde Manger Nelson Millan & Chef de Cuisine Kevin Cornaire
Senior Pastry Chef Jennifer Schaffer
Manda Aiken Director of Banquets and Catering
Sponsored by Southern Wine and Spirts, Premier Beverage Company, BBJ Linen

Chefs working

The team working in the kitchen

Caja China Suckling Pig copy

Caja china in action

Kitchen side view copy

Side view of the Kitchen

Chefs Nelson & Kevin copy

Chefs Nelson & Kevin

Chef Nelson is currently the Chef de Cuisine at the Beach Club, Sea Island Resorts, Sea Island, Georgia.

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3Nov
Chef Daniel Zeal plating up in the Georgian Room kitchen

Chef Daniel Zeal plating up in the Georgian Room kitchen, Mobil Five Star, 2 years in a row

As some of you may not know, the Georgian Room (at the Cloister, Sea Island Resorts) was named the Best Restaurant in Georgia by Georgia Trend magazine. A link to the article can be found here.

I have done many photo shoots with Chef Danny and his crew and I am always amazed by the presentation, taste, and creativity in the food. Not to mention the  dedication to excellence that each of the chef’s consistently puts forth. Congratulations to Chef Danny, his team, and the entire Georgian Room service staff.

Below are some photos of Chef Danny and the crew doing what they do best. Enjoy!

GEORGIA’S TOP 10 DINING DESTINATIONS
1. The Georgian Room (Chef Daniel Zeal)
2. Restaurant Eugene (Chef Linton Hopkins)
3. Glen-Ella Springs Lodge (Owners Ed and Luci Kivett)
4. Greyfield Inn
5. Park 75 (Chef Robert Gerstenecker)
7. Five and Ten (Chef Hugh Acheson)
8. Bacchanalia (chef/owners Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison)
9. MF Buckhead (Brothers Chris and Alex Kinjo)
10. Elizabeth on 37th (Kelly Yambo
Georgian Room at the Cloister

Mobil Five-Star, Georgian Room, 2008, 2009.

Black Cod, “Creamed” Corn, Maitake, Bok Choy, Maple-Ginger Barbecue, Autumn 2009 Menu

Black Cod, “Creamed” Corn, Maitake, Bok Choy, Maple-Ginger Barbecue, Autumn 2009 Menu

Lindsey Stevens, Georgian Room Chef de Partie plates up dessert

Lindsey Stevens, Georgian Room Chef de Partie plates up dessert

Bret Edlund, Cook I, plates during dinner service

Bret Edlund, Cook I, plates during dinner service

Butter Lettuce, Sweet Avocado, Strawberry, Pistachio, Ice Wine Vinaigrette, from the Summer 2009 Menu

Butter Lettuce, Sweet Avocado, Strawberry, Pistachio, Ice Wine Vinaigrette, from the Summer 2009 Menu

Anthony Whiddon, Georgian Room Chef de Partie plates up during dinner service

Anthony Whiddon, Georgian Room Chef de Partie plates up during dinner service

Oak Scented Wahoo, Shanghai Cabbage, Fresh Coriander, Coconut Essence, from the Summer 2009 menu

Oak Scented Wahoo, Shanghai Cabbage, Fresh Coriander, Coconut Essence, from the Summer 2009 menu

Chef Danny at Sapelo Farms in Brunswick, Georgia

Chef Danny with farmer David Lewis at Sapelo Farms in Brunswick, Georgia

For more information about the Georgian Room, visit www.seaisland.com

To view the current menu click here.

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About Me

Fottocini.com is an online resource for chefs, cooks, farmers, students, and all culinary professionals. I encourage you to share information about the ingredients you use, whats on your menu, or simply post a photo of your favorite dish. Also for photographers, food writers, foodiesor just anyone who loves food. Feel free to join! This project was developed by William Torrillo, and is operated out of St. Simons Island, Georgia. William provides all of the photos you see on fottocini (unless credited otherwise), he is also trained chef and graphic artist.